Keywords : brown colored cotton; far-infrared; polypropylene; blended natural color cotton is a new cotton variety that uses genetic engineering to make cotton fiber itself natural color, does not fade after washing, and is comfortable to wear without any irritation to the human body. Far-infrared fiber is a kind of health fiber that emits far-infrared rays, which can accelerate the human blood microcirculation, and play a role of health care and warmth. The CJ/PP70/30 14.5tex (C: brown colored cotton, PP: far-infrared polypropylene) yarns developed by blending brown colored cotton with far-infrared polypropylene not only highlights the characteristics of colored cotton, but also enhances the strength of yarn formation. For high-end shirt fabrics, in line with the requirements of the green ecological environment, its market prospects are broad. The introduction is as follows.
A blending ratio of the raw materials and optional
1.1 Physical index of Xinjiang brown colored cotton Xinjiang brown colored cotton grade: first grade; main body length: 30.1 mm; quality length: 32.8mm; evenness: 1290; short cashmere rate: 16 mm or less is 10.1 %; Inclusion rate: 3.86%; Single fiber strength: 4.85eN; Maturity: 1.65; Fineness: 1.53dtex; Fin Tablet: 2.1/g; Infertility Seeds, Broken Seeds: 5.7 grains/g; with fiber seeding: 9.5 grains/g. Looking at the whole, in addition to the high impurity rate, the strength, maturity, fineness, etc. are all superior to the same grade white cotton.
1.2 Far-infrared polypropylene physical properties In addition to far-infrared health care function, polypropylene fiber has the characteristics of easy washing, quick-drying, and good shape retention after washing. Its wear resistance, strength and elasticity are excellent. fiber. Polypropylene fiber fineness: 1.5dtex; length: 38 mm; specific resistance: 2.92X107 Ωg/cm2; number of crimps: 9.0/25 mm; curling degree: 12.7%; oil content: 0.22%.
1.3 Mixing proportions and methods of blending To make the yarns with natural and soft color, the strips are mixed in the head lane and the blending ratio is C:PP: 70:30, which is suitable for apparel appearance requirements.
2 . Process design
A blending ratio of the raw materials and optional
1.1 Physical index of Xinjiang brown colored cotton Xinjiang brown colored cotton grade: first grade; main body length: 30.1 mm; quality length: 32.8mm; evenness: 1290; short cashmere rate: 16 mm or less is 10.1 %; Inclusion rate: 3.86%; Single fiber strength: 4.85eN; Maturity: 1.65; Fineness: 1.53dtex; Fin Tablet: 2.1/g; Infertility Seeds, Broken Seeds: 5.7 grains/g; with fiber seeding: 9.5 grains/g. Looking at the whole, in addition to the high impurity rate, the strength, maturity, fineness, etc. are all superior to the same grade white cotton.
1.2 Far-infrared polypropylene physical properties In addition to far-infrared health care function, polypropylene fiber has the characteristics of easy washing, quick-drying, and good shape retention after washing. Its wear resistance, strength and elasticity are excellent. fiber. Polypropylene fiber fineness: 1.5dtex; length: 38 mm; specific resistance: 2.92X107 Ωg/cm2; number of crimps: 9.0/25 mm; curling degree: 12.7%; oil content: 0.22%.
1.3 Mixing proportions and methods of blending To make the yarns with natural and soft color, the strips are mixed in the head lane and the blending ratio is C:PP: 70:30, which is suitable for apparel appearance requirements.
2 . Process design
→ FA302 type X3 three-track paralleling→FL-16 type roving→EJMl28K type spinning frame→AC238 type Schrader automatic winder.
3 Spinning process parameters selection and quality status
3.1 Open cleaning process
3.1.1 Brown colored cotton Brown colored cotton has a high miscellaneous impurity, and all other major performance indicators are superior. It adopts the principle of "early falling less broken, multiple rows of gradual opening and loosening". The grasping machine adopts micro-grasping , The clearance distance is too large to master, the thug speed is reduced, and fiber damage is reduced.
3.1.2 The regain rate of far-infrared polypropylene far-infrared polypropylene fiber is almost zero, and the electrostatic entanglement is serious during spinning. Firstly, the pretreatment is carried out by using hot water with A070-type polypropylene spinning oil agent, and the proportion is 2 .5:1, evenly spraying in the inner compartment of the catch pan, which not only lubricates the fiber but also reduces the static electricity of the fiber, and effectively solves the “winding, winding, blocking, and hanging†phenomenon of the subsequent process. In view of the fact that the polypropylene fiber has no impurities and fewer defects, it adopts the technical principle of “do more and less and fight with combâ€, using only one A036-type opener, the speed of each beater is low, and each strike point is offset. Mastery, on the basis of effective opening, to reduce damage to the fiber and reduce noil. The main process parameters and quality indicators for the open cleaning process are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 Main process parameters and quality indicators of the open cleaning process
3 Spinning process parameters selection and quality status
3.1 Open cleaning process
3.1.1 Brown colored cotton Brown colored cotton has a high miscellaneous impurity, and all other major performance indicators are superior. It adopts the principle of "early falling less broken, multiple rows of gradual opening and loosening". The grasping machine adopts micro-grasping , The clearance distance is too large to master, the thug speed is reduced, and fiber damage is reduced.
3.1.2 The regain rate of far-infrared polypropylene far-infrared polypropylene fiber is almost zero, and the electrostatic entanglement is serious during spinning. Firstly, the pretreatment is carried out by using hot water with A070-type polypropylene spinning oil agent, and the proportion is 2 .5:1, evenly spraying in the inner compartment of the catch pan, which not only lubricates the fiber but also reduces the static electricity of the fiber, and effectively solves the “winding, winding, blocking, and hanging†phenomenon of the subsequent process. In view of the fact that the polypropylene fiber has no impurities and fewer defects, it adopts the technical principle of “do more and less and fight with combâ€, using only one A036-type opener, the speed of each beater is low, and each strike point is offset. Mastery, on the basis of effective opening, to reduce damage to the fiber and reduce noil. The main process parameters and quality indicators for the open cleaning process are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 Main process parameters and quality indicators of the open cleaning process
3.2 The carding process The main purpose of the carding process is to effectively fiberize the fabric on the basis of minimizing fiber damage, increase the degree of separation and parallelism of the individual fibers, reduce the impurities of the neps, and reduce the yarn count. Dry CV value, breakage of neps and spun yarn, polypropylene low-speed weak carding, and brown colored cotton low-speed strong carding. The difficulty in the carding process lies in the fact that during production of polypropylene, winding around Xilin is serious, and the transfer of cotton nets to Doffer is difficult. The following measures have been taken: the speed of doffers has been reduced; the relative humidity of clearing and carding has been increased by 62%; Needle cloth (clothing specifications see Table 2).
The working angle of the licker-in is increased and the tooth is shallow, so that the fiber can be smoothly transferred to the working area of ​​the cylinder. After the pricking roller is combed, there is no phenomenon of winding and flowering, and the tow fiber is prevented from being produced. The working angle of the cylinder clothing is larger and the tooth density is smaller, so that the fibers do not easily sink into the teeth, and the transfer and release of the fibers are enhanced. The corresponding doffer clothing has a smaller working angle and a greater tooth density, so that the fibers have Facilitate the transfer to Tofs and improve Doffer's ability to gather fibers. The main process parameters and quality indicators of the carding process are shown in Table 3.
Table 2 card clothing parameters
The working angle of the licker-in is increased and the tooth is shallow, so that the fiber can be smoothly transferred to the working area of ​​the cylinder. After the pricking roller is combed, there is no phenomenon of winding and flowering, and the tow fiber is prevented from being produced. The working angle of the cylinder clothing is larger and the tooth density is smaller, so that the fibers do not easily sink into the teeth, and the transfer and release of the fibers are enhanced. The corresponding doffer clothing has a smaller working angle and a greater tooth density, so that the fibers have Facilitate the transfer to Tofs and improve Doffer's ability to gather fibers. The main process parameters and quality indicators of the carding process are shown in Table 3.
Table 2 card clothing parameters
Table 3 Main process parameter block and quality index of carding process
3.3 The combing process combines the characteristics of brown colored cotton and the quality of the slivers. It is slightly optimized on the carding gauge and the cotton gauge, and the rest is basically based on the technical parameters of the conventional fine cotton. The main process parameters are: :
Feeding length: 5.23 mm Droplet spacing: 19mm
Carding gauge: 0.35 mm Gripper plate fulcrum position: 29.6mm
Roller gauge: 7X10mm Top Coming In/Out Gauge: 4mm
Top and rear separation roller gauge: 0.75
The main combing quality indicators are:
Dry ration: 18.7g/5 m combed sliver lanolin rate: 9.5%
Neps/Pick: 22/29/g &
Feeding length: 5.23 mm Droplet spacing: 19mm
Carding gauge: 0.35 mm Gripper plate fulcrum position: 29.6mm
Roller gauge: 7X10mm Top Coming In/Out Gauge: 4mm
Top and rear separation roller gauge: 0.75
The main combing quality indicators are:
Dry ration: 18.7g/5 m combed sliver lanolin rate: 9.5%
Neps/Pick: 22/29/g &