Wang Shui's famous path is contrary to his peers. She did not eagerly embrace the market, but instead returned to the factory to polish the design and explore her own path in loneliness.
On the evening of October 15th, the crowd outside the Zhongshi Building in the Bund area was shaken. The 20-point show was delayed for a long time. Live, self-portraits, and sculpted influxes crowded the trails early and rushed to the long queue, backed by Uma Wang's name. This is the most watched show of the season at Shanghai Fashion Week. It is expected.
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Three hours ago, Wang Ju was still busy with the final rehearsal. This is the capsule series of its first-name brand Uma Wang and the cashmere brand 1436. It has a lot of looks and they are all cashmere and knit designs. On the other side, the director of the show is holding the lad to direct the model station. She is circling her arms and whispering proposals. The spotlight swept through, and in her black dress she appeared to have a silhouette: no makeup, long straight hair, flat ballet shoes, low-key scoring minutes to hide into the crowd.
The same is true for her design of clothes, all kinds of low-saturation knitwear, cashmere sweaters, lines are extremely well-washed, weave and fabric are independent. In short, not so "China". When fashion critic Tangshuang visited the Uma Wang shop in Xintiandi, Shanghai for the first time, he saw a dark, knitted robe with five poles in the grim concrete space. “At the time, almost all Chinese young designers were focused on three-dimensional tailoring... These big robes were flat, flat and long, and they hung up like large groups of fabrics. Their designers did not know where to come from. A set of fresh and sophisticated tricks stirs up the rivers and lakes and is full of curiosity."
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Compared with peers such as "exception" Marco and "Yiran" Wang Yiyang, Wang Jue chose a path of life that was devious and pragmatic. He first polished his designs at the factory for a few years and went abroad for further studies. This gives people an illusion that after the "70s" she debuted with the "post-80s" designers. Afterwards, it was the inspiring story of accumulating a lot of emotions—focusing on the overseas market for many years. She was hailed by the media as the third king after the Vera Wang and Alexander Wang to attract attention from the fashion industry.
Fashion is like people, and people who make good things with the king will say so, 44-year-old she has the "70 after" designer's unique humble and low-key. From the evening of the fashion week, Diane Pernet, the first-generation fashion blogger, and the “post-80s†designer, who calls it “Uma Sisterâ€, can be imagined. It was late at midnight on this day. At 1:00 in the morning, she found a small milk cat on her way home. Her eyes were straight and ignorant. It was probably like myself many years ago. “Give it tonight tonight. The perfect ending."
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ascetic
In 2002, when she was in her thirtieth year, Wang Jue resigned and went abroad to study for eight months in Central St. Martin. The teacher looked at her with many years of experience and advised her not to read clothing anymore, so she chose the accessory design. Two years after she graduated, she registered a brand in London and only worked on her knitwear. She was planning to take a step forward. “The results of sales advised me to change my direction and even change Uma Wang’s trademark because at first glance it was the name of the Chinese people. They never signed a Chinese designer and felt that Chinese designers did not give people the feeling of quality and they did not It must be original,†she said in an interview.
Wang Jue particularly hates the word "original." In the first few years of her career, she was an ascetic worker in a factory in Dongguan. Her boss often asked her to copy the design of big names or introduce some styles that catered to the market. Passion was consumed and she was empty and full of negative emotions. In the cycle of fashion, the brilliance of predecessors is also constraining the way of the latecomers. How do you have your own logo?
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Taurus took 60% of her time in the factory, repeatedly observed the impact of water flow, temperature, washing machine rotation, dyes and other factors on the fabric, and then discarded a large number of test items - the ideal effect can sometimes be encountered, surprise Often comes from wrong trials. “Being different from fabric and knitting, the involved processes are more. The time and effort to develop fabrics each time account for more than half of the entire series,†she told the “First Financial Dailyâ€.
Now people talk about royal jelly, and the most talked about is always her unique new fabric. Even if it is an ordinary cashmere sweater, she can also distinguish seasonality by similarly two branches 26, three branches 68 or two shares 52. Some invisible ingenuity is in the details. The newly released NewEssential series will cashmere cashmere wash with warm water, a loose density hair-scraping process to break the prototype and texture of cashmere. "The thread on the collar is generally 5 cm. This attempt to transition from 2 to 5 looks more refined." She introduced.
These inspirations often come from her travels. In the Uma Wang 2017 spring and summer series just released last month, people rarely saw the printed elements, large and modern city scenes were black and white, and the earth-like rocks lit up with light, with varying concentrations of gray and black alternately shaded. . “The print was suddenly remembered. When the whole series finished 80%, I felt that I was missing new elements. So I thought of the works I had taken and printed them on the clothes.†She opened the stripes and broke the common elements, allowing the series to be rich and balanced. She said that she wanted to break through and did not want to have the usual routine.
For this series, the king's juice penetrated for the first time in Albus ranch. She was born in Hebei and her family was close to the grasslands, but she has never been. "For so many years, I always feel that places that are too close to me can go anytime. There is a feeling of rebirth at the moment when we stand on the grasslands. All this cannot be felt in the city." She said that this series took only one month to conceive.
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With oriental charm
The more individualized the fabric is, the more exclusive it is. The king juice likes to ponder this scale. She blended cashmere and nylon to create a rich texture with folds, or a material such as cotton or linen to reshape the dialogue between materials. “Cashmere prices are expensive, and splicing can reduce costs; on the other hand, it allows more young people to accept it. If they think onepiece is too basic, they won’t wear it out. Stitching can make materials collide and change profile.†Mesh yarns, trending silks, ribbons, rhombics, dots, etc., make cashmere off the old taste.
The design of the royal juice does not have straightforward oriental elements, but some people think that they have oriental charm. As she said, she may be affected by the study of Chinese parents. “The design of the clothing feels a bit different from the packaging paper outside the Chinese medicine. Like.†She also often bought antique clothes to see. However, she said that for so many years, there have been very few contacts with many designers, no matter if they are domestic or foreign.
She herself is a perfect example. When she first started her career in London, in order to enter the brand into the international system, she transferred to overseas exhibitions and worked with top Italian manufacturers to develop fabrics. With her unique weaving language, she successfully captured the favor of buyers. “A lot of the stores we have stationed abroad are benchmarks of the fashion trend. If they sell Uma Wang’s clothes, other stores will follow suit to ask us to order.†She mentioned in an interview that many domestic (professional) stores may Only the best selling clothes will be displayed, unlike the good foreign buyer's shops, which will give you the opportunity to show your brand image.
“At the beginning, I wanted to do it but I couldn’t do it. I could only go to Italy. Over the years, designers have grown up and the industry has been improving in all areas.†For the current domestic market, she said there was no difficulty. “Not perfect. I'm full of parts." At the second floor of Changle Road's "Bridge" buyer's shop, Uma Wang has a prominent position. At present, it has 12 sales points in China, 17 in Italy, and more than 30 in other countries or regions.
Wangjue had thought that if he couldn't enter a certain store someday, he wouldn't do it. As a result, he would see his design lying there and smiled and walked out. So Shi Jian’s founder, Lin Jian, wrote the king's juice: You can easily think of the “benefits†that the Chinese people often say, but that’s not “keeping the duty,†but at the right time, right. The place to do the right thing is not greedy, innocent, or crazy.
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